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Installing Tan (or RooPads) in a Buescher Saxophone!  
Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 07:12 AM
In the MusicMedic.com repair shop we often get requests to re-pad Buescher Saxophones with RooPads. This is something we do on a regular basis for professional players around the world who play Buescher saxophones at a very high level. The results are excellent and I believe it is in a large part due to the quality pad we install and method we use to install these pads.

When re-padding a Buescher saxophone, one has to make a decision about the type of pad to install. The choice of pad and installation method is one of great debates among Buescher players, collectors and technicians. There are reasons to install standard pads on a Buescher just as there are reasons to keep the system original and install Buescher Metal backed pads. This article intends to discuss the one method of installing standard (not metal backed) pads on a Buescher saxophone while retaining the original snaps and spuds without modifying the instrument permanently.


Why not to install regular, cardboard backed, pads on a Buescher?

Before we begin a discussion about how to install standard pads on a Buescher, it's important to note that some players, collectors and technicians feel that installing anything other than Metal backed pads on a Buescher is an incorrect method and should not be done. In my discussions with many players, techs and collectors around the world, I have found two main arguments for installing Metal backed pads on a Buescher: The first is tone and the second is feel.

As far as the tone of the instrument is concerned, there are some players who believe the Metal backed pads are an integral part of the tone production on a vintage Buescher saxophone. The most common reasoning I hear is that the Metal backing on the pad transmits sound or vibrations to the key-work and body of the instrument. Since this system is unique to Buescher saxophones, some feel that installing cardboard backed pads on a Buescher may detract from its unique tone and playability.

Others believe that the Metal backed pads, in combination with the snaps and spuds, produce a feel in the players hands that is unique to Buescher Saxophones. As there are many ways to install Metal backed pads in Buescher saxophones, there are various levels to this argument. Buescher Metal backed pads can be installed (although it is very difficult) with pad shims, with a solid bed of shellac, with very little shellac etc.. The Buescher purist, would argue that it is imperative that no adhesive be used in the installation of Buescher Metal backed pads. Re-padding a Buescher in this manner (without shellac and with Metal backed pads) is exactly correct from a historical perspective and there are many players and collectors that feel this is very important to keep these instruments original.

Reasons to install Standard pads on a Buescher:

There are good reasons to install RooPads or standard pads in a Buescher rather than the metal backed pads. The first is feel and the second is playability.

As far as the feel of the instrument is concerned, replacing the Buescher metal backed pads with standard pads allows the technician and player to choose the pad style they prefer. This flexibility allows the technician to tailor the instrument to the player based on their specific playing style and geographical location. Even with this flexibility the technician and player are forced to use the Snap-on resonators that came standard on so many Buescher saxophones. Nonetheless, there is a lot of flexibility for the padder as far as pad choice is concerned. Certainly a Buescher with Metal backed pads will have a different feel than one with RooPads. In my experience using Standard tan pads on a Buescher will result in a feel that is very similar to metal backed pads.

As far as the playability of the instrument after the overhaul is concerned, installing pads with shellac facilitates more precise leak removal. With shellac it is possible to heat the cup and adjust the pads for a near perfect seal. This is the traditional method used on all other saxophones containing standard cardboard backed pads. To level and seat with the metal backed pads, the technician will have to bend the pad cups to conform to inconsistencies in the tone holes as well as the inconsistencies in the leather and felt. Using any cardboard backed pads will usually result in finer leak work. The feel and stickiness of the final job will be defined by the quality of the pads installed. Again, this is why I choose RooPads for most Buescher overhauls that do not get metal backed pads.


Removing the snaps and spuds all together.

Don't do it. Although it would be an easier job for the technician to simply remove the spuds in the cups and install the standard or RooPads in a traditional manner, this is not recommended for a few reasons. The most important reason to leave the metal snaps and spuds on the instrument may be value. A Buescher that has its snaps removed is less valuable than one with the Snaps and spuds intact. A lesser reason may be playability. Many players that use Bueschers, and to a greater extent collectors, feel that the Snaps and spuds are an integral part of the sound and feel of a Buescher saxophone. Removing the snaps and spuds will lessen these players' perception of how the instrument will play and may change how the instrument actually plays. Since replacing the snaps and spuds is very costly, removing them can be considered non-reversible. As far as I know, there is no proof that the spuds and snaps have any impact on the sound of a Buescher. Even with this information, we generally replace any missing spuds and snaps during a Buescher overhaul.


What does MusicMedic.com do in their pro-shop?

At MusicMedic.com we have a unique situation. We sell pads, including the Buescher Metal backed pads, as well as repair instruments. Also, we repair Buescher Saxophones for players all over the world. Players at a very high level as well as professors at major universities insist on the finest work we can offer and will not accept anything less. It is a real challenge to satisfy these players and we must use every trick and technique we can to help them play their best everyday; knowing that they are not in town and cannot just 'drop by' if they have a problem with their instrument. There can be no problems.

That said, in our saxophone pro-shop, we have used every pad from every major and minor pad manufacturer. We are also a pad manufacturer and have experimented extensively with various leather and felt (or synthetic) combinations. We have made Metal backed pads with various leather and felt combinations. If it exists, we have tried it. To date we find that RooPads are far superior to any other pad available at any price and this includes the currently available Buescher Metal backed pads.

Having found (created really) a pad that is clearly superior to anything available, we offer the option of RooPads to players who use Buescher saxophones. About 95% of our Buescher overhauls go out the door with RooPads and the player is always ecstatic with the results. Of course, we have installed metal backed pads on many Bueschers and continue to do so at the players request. However, we strongly recommend considering RooPads on a Buescher Saxophones.

As there are so many pad types in the world with many different properties discussing each of these would be a long winded article to say the least. For the remainder of this article will discuss the use of RooPads in place of original metal backed pads. As RooPads install exactly the same as any other standard pads, you can substitute any cardboard backed pad where RooPads are mentioned.


Finally, the Process of installing RooPads pads in place of Metal backed pads.

As I mentioned above, this process does not alter the instrument permanently. If you choose to remove the original snaps and spuds from your instrument you may be making a mistake.

The process of replacing Metal backed pads with cardboard backed pads (or RooPads) is simple but it takes a little more time than a standard (modern) overhaul. Once the preparation for this process is complete, the act of installing the pads is almost exactly the same as any other pad replacement. When complete, the resulting pad job will have RooPads in the cup with shellac behind them just like any other saxophone. In the middle of the pad will be the Buescher Snap held in by the original spud.

1.Choose a Pad that you like of the proper size. Buescher Saxophones work well with .160”-.165” pads.







2.Using your caliper, note the smaller diameter of the snap as well as the larger diameter of the snap associated with the key.







3.Choose a leather punch that is slightly larger than the snap back but smaller than the snap face.










4.Punch a hole in the center of the RooPad.








5.Set this pad aside read this article and all associated articles about padding including: Leveling tone holes, leveling pad cups on a bench anvil, dry fitting pads, The push and pull of installing pads and any other articles you can find here.


6.Once you have addressed the 4 variables of pad installation, you can proceed with the installation. Do not skip the preparation of leveling the tone holes, pads cups and dry fitting. Note that dry fitting is most important in with Buescher pads as the snap will hold the pad firmly in the center of the cup and 'floating' will be limited.


7.Heat the Buescher pad cup and apply a layer of quality shellac to the back of the cup, be sure that some gets on the spud in the cup. This will help keep the snap from rattling later.




8.Quickly press the pad into the cup and press the snap on the spud.



9.Now, install the pad in a the regular manner outlined in the articles here. Again, it is important to note that 'floating' will be limited once the snap is on the pad. Be sure you have done your dry fitting completely before you begin your padding.


May your Holiday gigs go well and may your Santa be a saxophonist!

-Curt
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How's the building going? 
Wednesday, November 12, 2008, 12:53 PM


Well, it's a lot of work my body and mind are taking a beating! Everyone in the shop has worked wonderfully to help with this project. Some have gone to the building to clean and prep for the work that will happen and everyone has picked up the slack around the shop for those of us that are busy doing the many things there are to do around the building. All this work we've done and the work has not even started! Before we start any real work at the building we will need a permit. However, when talking about cleaning up a 40,000 square foot building, even sweeping is an all day job. So there is plenty to do! Everyone at the shop including, Jen, Jon, Matt, Rich, Mike, Drew and Justin have done their part to help. It really is a testament to what a great team we have!

Bravo guys (and Gal)!!

So, All the planning for the rehabilitation of the shop is done! The place is clean and ready for the workers to come in and do their part! I'm sure I'll get in there too and get my hands dirty. I secretly love this work and, although my days have often been 10-15 hours long, I have to admit I love every minute of it!

The folks at the City and County offices have been GREAT! They are as excited about this business as we are. They are doing all they can to help. I've heard stories about various zoning and inspection officials being very hard to deal with. This certainly is not the case here. Everyone has a keen eye on safety and a strong interest in beautifying the town, as these are also our goals we all seem to be on the same page. I really don't think I could imagine a finer group of guys and gals than we have here in public office at Wilmington NC.

We are taking the shop in a "green" direction. We have some cool ideas on paper and everyone is super-excited to see it come to fruition. The shop will have extreme daylighting with very modern LED lights connected to motion/heat/light sensors. That means when the sun is out the lights are out. When noone is in the shop, the lights are out. The lights only come on when someone is in the shop working and there is not sun. We're using Cork flooring (a renewable resource) in the offices and recycled rubber flooring in the shops and halls. Any fixtures we get will be low power consumption or heavily energy minded such as the On-demand tankless hot water heater and Energy Recovery Ventilators.

I can't wait to open the door and ask you all to come visit the new shop but alas, it will be a while before we're in there. Until then, rest assured that none of us at MusicMedic.com are afraid to get our hands dirty (or beat-up) and we're all trying to do our part for this great planet!

Thanks for checking in!

-Curt
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Another Buescher mod.  
Monday, November 10, 2008, 10:46 AM


The best modifications are the ones that you cannot see. How well do you know your Buescher mechanisms? This is a Buescher 400 Tenor you are looking at, can you tell what we did? -no, it's not the addition of a rubber riser on the D key...

If you can tell what the mod is than, good it was a success. If you can, let me know your thoughts about it.


All the best!

-Curt
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More sax modifications. Adding a Selmer type octave mechanism to a Buescher Transitional 
Wednesday, September 17, 2008, 12:21 PM
Today we finished a job for a player in Florida named Martin. This work was done by Matt Scott here at the MusicMedic.com saxophone repair shop. Martin's saxophone (who's name is Ed) is a Buescher "New Aristocrat." Ed is a saxophone that we overhauled years ago. One problem with Ed, that most Bueschers suffer from, is an uncomfortable octave mechanism. The octave pearl on a Buescher Alto is located directly above the rest and it pivots in the opposite direction from a modern saxophone octave mechanism.

Although I didn't take a before picture, there is a similar saxophone on Saxpics here

Due to some hand problems, Martin took his saxophone with him to a doctors visit. After looking at the configuration of the octave mechanism on this saxophone the doctor explained to Martin that his octave mechanism may be adding to the problems with his hand. Martin decided to take the plunge and have a Selmer style octave mechanism put on Ed. Since Ed already had a C-bar (which is a simple version of Clyde the Glyde) we decided to add Clyde the Glyde to the mechanism to improve on the C-bar and remove lost motion.

Most Buescher Altos also have lost motion in the G key where it hits the octave pad. This has always been a problem on these instruments, so Matt decided to address that problem as well.

As this modification is intended to ease the players hand position and motion, we also wanted to make the amount of movement in the LH thumb variable, without varying the amount of movement in the octave pad. This is something I have seen on any saxophone in production but it is very handy.

All of these adjustments were made by allowing the relationship between the various opposing fulcrums to be completely adjustable. Although the intention was to make and install a Selmer type octave mechanism, the result is a greatly improved hand-made Selmer style octave mechanism.




Here is the whole mechanism before polishing and plating. It's not pretty yet but it works very well.



Here you can see Clyde the Glyde in his naked form before clean up.



This is the adjustment screw that allows the thumb lever's movement to be adjusted without changing the amount of movement in the octave pads.


This adjustment lever allows the technician to change the height of the G pad without adding lost motion to the mechanism. Again, this is done by changing the contact point between the two opposing fulcrums.



Here's Ed back to being beautiful. All polished and plated. The new octave mechanism works like a charm!



Another shot of Ed, this time from the back.


This mechanism works perfectly on the Buescher without adding any lost motion and even removes lost motion present on so many Bueschers. Martin tells me that the mechanism allows him to go over the break more easily and the new, more natural, thumb motion will certainly help technique avoid problems in the Left thumb.

Great job Matt!
Thanks for looking!

-Curt


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Some great new files 
Friday, August 29, 2008, 10:02 AM
It's kind of funny the things that excite a repair technician. In my shop I was struggling with files that I didn't really care for. So about 6 months ago I bought all new files. This made my repair-shop life a lot easier. Manufacturing keys and such is a breeze with good files. I'll never go back to inferior files in my shop. I've gone ahead and added the most popular files in my drawers to the website.

With some great new hand files and killer tone hole drill-file set, work has been a day in the park lately.

I use the coarse file for cutting and removing metal. The fine file is perfect for taking out the large file marks or removing small amounts of metal. The fine hand file on the site is so nice parts go directly from the file to the buffer.

life is good.

If you have a favorite shape that you like to use in your own repairs, please drop me a line and I'll try and get them in stock.

Here is a link to our files:

http://www.musicmedic.com/catalog/categ ... at_22.html


All the best!

-Curt


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